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Bernina 440 QE: Button Hole Tutorial
Buttonholes seem to be one of the most scoured and studied aspects of a sewing machine when seasoned pros decide to get a new machine. Is the stitch quality good? Are they easy to make? Are they consistent? If you sew clothes, its these types of finishing touches that make all the difference. Many have asked me questions related to button holes on the Bernina 440 QE, and I’ve finally decided to put together a little button hole walkthrough for the curious! Hopefully this will answer some of the questions that have been put out there. If not, please let me know – I’m probably going to do a little Q & A post in the near future. Let’s hop to it, shall we?
Getting Started
First things first. Reach into your handy accessory cabinet and pull out the Button Hole Foot – # 3A. Can you find it in this picture? It’s like a little Where’s Waldo search:
Isn't this a cute little hiding place for this strangely shaped foot? Cozily nestled among the... needles.
Let’s take a quick look at the 3A foot. The basic anatomy is pretty simple. It’s got what I’ll call a clear shoe with a little red mark that slides back and forth within the surrounding metal frame when you stitch your button holes. The frame helps you determine the length you want your button hole.
Top view of the button hole foot.
Bottom view of the button hole foot.
Notice the black gear wheel that rides along the metal teeth of the foot. This is what moves the shoe back and forth as it creates a button hole.
There are two red bits you should be aware of:
These two red pieces are essential to creating the perfect button hole!
Now that we’ve checked out the parts, place the foot on the machine.
Put the foot on the machine, just as you would any other foot...
It’ll look like this when you’re done:
It's an odd looking beast, isn't it?
Now it’s time to thread the bobbin and the thread. I was in the dark about this little feature until after I posted the initial version of this tutorial, but thanks to some great readers, I am now enlightened! You thread the top thread like normal. The bobbin, on the other hand, has a super secret little hole that you can thread for tighter thread tension throughout the button hole experience. Looky here:
The part that sticks out on the right is called the finger. It's got a little hole up there just for your bobbin thread to go through!
So, you thread your bobbin like normal, but then once you’re done, slide that little thread through the microscopic hole on the finger (the bit that sticks out on the right). When it’s threaded properly, it’ll look like this:
Clever, isn't it?
The hole on the finger can be used for button holes and also for doing embroidery with the embroidery module. Essentially, you can thread through the finger any time that you’d like the tension to be tighter.
First thing I do once the foot is on the machine and the machine is threaded is to pull the thread down through the foot to get a nice clean start. To do this, I hit the needle up/down button twice (needle down, then up again). Then I grab the thread from underneath:
This needle up/down button is I think my absolute favorite feature of this machine. Simple pleasures, right?
Now slide something – seam ripper, scissors (closed, not open!), or a pin – underneath the foot and slide the threads out and to the back:
Now the top thread is through to the bottom of the foot, and the bobbin thread is pulled up and both are happily hanging out.
Making a Button Hole
Now we’re ready to get started! Our trusty stitch card says that button holes can be done with stitches 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16.
Bernina stitch card. Look at all the button hole options!
I’ll be using number 11 for this tutorial only. The rest of the button holes can be done just like the ones I do here! Enter stitch number 11 on the machine by pressing the # [triangle] key and then the one key twice (#-1-1)
What would you call this... the Number Triangle button?
Once this is done, your screen should look like this:
The screen, as always, has some useful information.
Notice that it’s telling us to use foot 3A. We’re done with that part already, so we’re ahead of the game! Next, notice that the stitch length (the vertical 0 – 5 scale on the left) shows three dashes and ends up at the little squiggly mark between 0 and 1. This is apparently the squiggly mark to indicate button hole stitch length. This little machine is so clever. Finally, it’ll actually show you the shape of the button hole we’ll be making.
The left vertical part of the button hole image will be blinking, indicating which part of the button hole it’s ready to sew (or in progress of sewing). We’ll come back to this diagram in a minute.
Now we’re ready to get the button in on the action after long last. Find your favorite button that you’d like to make a button hole for. The Bernina button hole foot only supports buttons that are 3 inches or less, since that’s the length of the foot. If you have a bigger button than that, I’m afraid you’re out of luck!
Place your button on top of the foot. The very top of your button should line up with the first red mark on the foot. Careful! If you have a small button, it’ll be easy for this to slide up past the red line. It’s best to hold the button in place while you measure. The little arrow on the bottom red slider should line up with the very bottom of the button.
The button, in its temporary home.
Now that you’ve got the bottom slider set up properly, you can remove the button from the foot and place it aside. Its brief cameo appearance is this tutorial is officially over! From here on out, it’s all button holes, all the time.
It’s time to place your fabric underneath the presser foot and begin stitching. Begin and go slowly. Here’s how this will go down:
- Begin stitching. You’ll notice that it will begin making little zig-zag stitches that eventually make up the left side of the button hole.
- The metal frame will begin moving backward as you stitch, moving the top red line (attached to the shoe) toward the red plastic slider arrow.
The red lines eventually meet up when the button hole is as long as it needs to be to accommodate the button of your choosing.
- Once the plastic red arrow is lined up with the red mark on the shoe, quickly hit the reverse button. Go slowly! This part can sneak up on you and can leave you feeling a little harried.
Hitting the reverse button as the two red lines meet tells the machine that you've reached the desired length for this button hole.
- This tells the machine that you’ve reached the desired length of the button hole and it’s time to finish the other sides. Don’t worry. The machine takes care of everything else from here!
- The machine will begin backtracking up on the right side of the button-hole-to-be and will continue to finish all of the remaining sides.
- The final side that it fills in is the bottom. It will zig-zag in place for a while at the bottom and then come to a rest in the up position on its own. This is similar to the motion when you end a repeat of any other stitch on the machine.
Please note! You will know that the machine is done stitching when the graphic on the screen blinks the left vertical side again. If it’s still blinking the bottom part of the button hole, you’ve got more stitching to do.
You’re done! Your button hole is now complete! Marvel at your work:
All done!
One Last Step
To realize the full potential of your button hole, you’ll have to open it up to make room for the button! Take your trusty seam ripper, insert it carefully into the fabric, taking care to not get any of the thread, and gently run it up the length of the button hole to open it up.
Careful! If you're too quick here and catch the threads, this could mess up all of your hard work, leading to an unraveling button hole!
The Auto Feature – How to Make More Identical Button Holes.
Once you finish your first button hole, take it out, snip the threads, make sure the button fits, and admire it. But not for long! We’ve got more work to do.
The Bernina 440 has the ability to make all subsequent button holes exactly the same length as the one you just created, using an auto-button hole feature. You would use this if you were making, say, a shirt that had 5 or 6 identical buttons. In theory, you could replicate the steps you just took, but there is room for error, specifically in terms of the timing in which you hit the reverse button to identify the length of the button hole as you are stitching. Even though I know you wouldn’t make any mistakes, Bernina makes sure you can’t when you do your next button holes. Here’s how it works.
You’ll notice that since you finished your first button hole, there is one key difference on the display. The inside of the button hole graphic on the display now shows the word “auto” where it was blank before. Check out the picture below to make sure yours does too!
The inside of the button hole diagram now says "auto," indicating that it's ready for more automatic button hole fun.
The “auto” indication means that the Bernina is ready to make more button holes just like the one you just did – exactly the same! Little did you know it at the time, but when you did your first button hole, you were actually programming the machine, telling it just how big you wanted the current and future button holes to be. It remembered, and is ready to make more.
Now, when you place your fabric under the foot and begin stitching, it can be a hands-free affair, in which you just sit back and watch it create another identical button hole. Brilliant!
This will happen for as long as you’d like to make identical button holes. But what if you have a different vision, and all of the buttons on your shirt are different sizes? How do you get rid of the “auto” feature?
Resetting the button hole programming
If you’re ready to move on to other button hole sizes, then you need to clear out the programmed size that you told the Bernina about previously. To do this, simply hit the clear button (affectionately known as “clr” on the machine) to get rid of the auto designation and to start from scratch.
Clear out all memory of your previous button hole...
The “auto” will disappear, and you are free to start again with a brand new, differently-sized button and repeat all the steps from above.
I love this wee yellow button...
Threading Comparison
Since I was in the dark for a while about the best threading technique for button holes, I decided to see if the threading through the bobbin finger really made any difference or not. Here’s my comparison shot:
Hmmm... What's the verdict?
I guess I don’t see a huge difference. But the one on the right – not threaded through the finger – does look a tad messier, especially on the left side of the button hole. For my novice eyes, I’m not sure I’d notice from far away! Anyway, I figure I’ll still thread through the finger, since it can’t hurt!
Troubleshooting Tips
My machine doesn’t make very nice button holes!
Eek! I know how you feel. I’ve had several attempts that yielded bad button holes. Here’s what I changed to make it work:
- Try a different needle. Either sharper, or thinner, or just plain newer. I often sew with denim needles for sewing heavier layers of fabric (they are larger, thicker needles) and these seem to make pretty terrible button holes. See below:
Ick! The top two button holes are made with a denim needle (it was a pretty dull one at that...). Just not as delicate as one might hope, and the stitching didn't seem so even. The bottom button hole was made with a universal needle sized 70/10. Muuuch better!
- Thread type – try changing the type of thread that you make your button holes with. I use thread designated for machine embroidery, and you typically get nicer, fuller button holes this way.
- Use a stabilizer – Try placing interfacing or wash away stabilizer beneath the fabric when you do your button hole. More delicate fabrics need structure to be useful for housing button holes.
- Give the bobbin threading a look-see and see if you’re threading through the finger.
It won’t repeat my button hole!
- If you turn off your machine after your first button hole, it will forget about your programmed button hole size.
- Don’t hit the “clr” button in between button holes.
- Don’t punch in the #-1-1 combo again after you make your first button hole. The machine will stay on the button hole stitch for as long as you like.
33 Responses to “Bernina 440 QE: Button Hole Tutorial”
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This is Banjo & I:
I'm Robyn. Thanks for stopping by! This is my craft blog.
Contact me at robyn [at] dognamedbanjo [dot] com.
January 5th, 2009 at 6:18 am
Great tutorial! But I have to say..man…I am so glad my machine only has 5 stitches!! So much simpler! This looks extremely complicated…
January 5th, 2009 at 7:54 am
Thanks so much for the tutorial! I could have used this back in October (LOL) when I needed to make many buttonholes for a costume. I admit, I cursed my machine. But then I figured it out, and fell in love all over again. I whipped out those buttonholes like nobody’s business.
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January 5th, 2009 at 10:37 am
YOu’ll get a smoother finish too if you put your bobbin thread through the small eye on the bobbin finger. Know what I mean?
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January 5th, 2009 at 11:22 am
I think this is your calling. I feel like I could stitch a button hole now, even though I lack both button and sewing machine.
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January 5th, 2009 at 1:33 pm
i love your little instructional posts!
i bought a bernina because i was so impressed with this buttonhole foot, i still get a little thrill every time it makes a pretty buttonhole for me
do you thread your bobbin thread through the hole at the end of the little finger on the bobbin case? that was like a tension revelation to me with the buttonholes!
January 5th, 2009 at 1:52 pm
Great tutorial, maybe you could get a job with Bernina when they update their manual (which is SORELY lacking, in my humble opinion). The last time I made a buttonhole I noticed the bit about the thread thru the eye of the bobbin hook. Of course little explanation as to what that looked like – I guessed and results were okay.
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January 5th, 2009 at 3:43 pm
Big oops! I totally left out the part about threading through the bobbin finger (read: um, didn’t know about it until just now…)
I’ve updated the post. Thanks to all the readers and commenters who caught my error! I even added a little comparison section so you can see the difference between threading that way and not threading….
January 6th, 2009 at 8:03 am
Robin, this is such a great tutorial. I actually managed to try out the 440 QE buttonholes this weekend, but the manual definitely left something to be desired. Had I not had experience with automatic buttonholes in the past, I would definitely have been in the dark. I think this tutorial is very useful.
One thing I would add – when you are opening your buttonholes, place a straight pin at the very top of the buttonhole so it’s perpendicular to it. This way, you can’t accidentally rip through the top of the beautiful buttonhole you just made.
January 10th, 2009 at 9:40 am
Really great tutorial, Robyn, brilliantly clear, I shall definitely put the new machine through it’s paces on this one.
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January 22nd, 2009 at 3:31 pm
This is a labor and testament of your love and dedication to Bernina. They should totally hire you.
January 24th, 2009 at 5:55 am
This saved my sanity! The manual is terrible and I agree you should rewrite the whole thing and your photos are wonderful! Keep up the great site.
February 22nd, 2009 at 2:04 pm
I just read this tutorial after having made my first button hole about one hour ago! Sure would have been helpful. That being said, the manual mentioned adjusting the upper thread tension to 2.5 to create a raised look in the buttonhole. I did and it did seem to work. Of course I didn’t know about the finger on the bobbin…oh well. Thanks, I’m going to print your instructions and add to the manual.
March 1st, 2009 at 1:48 am
Thank you so much for this great step by Step tutorial. I was going nuts trying to figure this out on my own (I have no idea what I did with my manual) and it was the only thing I had left to do to complete my project. After reading your post I knew exactly what I was doing wrong… I wasn’t pressing the reverse, duh! Thanks so much, You are a lifesaver!
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March 13th, 2009 at 12:50 pm
I cannot begin to tell you how much I appreciate that you posted this tutorial. I have a Bernina 440 QE, and I never got to take the class that went with it because the store was an hour from my home and I had to work as well as breastfeed an infant, so time just never worked out for me.
So, I have had to learn on my own, and have generally done well, but the buttonholes I needed to make for this dress I am making for my now 2 1/2 year old were freaking me out. And the manual that comes with the machine is really not helpful.
So, thank you. I printed it out and put it in my manual. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
March 15th, 2009 at 10:47 am
@ Barbara:
I’m so glad that the tutorial was useful to you! I’m sure your 2 1/2 year old will appreciate how hard you worked for those buttons!
March 15th, 2009 at 1:26 pm
Brenda, you’re very welcome! The project you used it for is very cute! I love needle cases!
April 20th, 2009 at 1:14 pm
Your tutorial saved my life today. I lost my manual and was desperate. Thanks!
April 22nd, 2009 at 3:22 am
Thank you so much for this. I never did the lessons but the manual is very sadly lacking. I was making the mistake of pushing that reverse button at the end of each step because I couldn’t find any instructions that explained it.
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May 25th, 2009 at 11:54 am
Sundress almost done. Just two buttonholes, just two buttonholes. Find manual. Final 3A foot. Now what. Reread manual. Reread manual again. (Subtsitute velcro??) Did my manual come without important chapter on using the buttonhole foot? Google. Dog Named Banjo? Give it a try. Wow!! My day is complete. My manual has 27 additional, useful, pages added. Gratefully, gratefully. TKB
May 31st, 2009 at 9:55 am
Thank you – Thank you – Thank you
Yesterday I was trying to make my first buttonhole using the 440QE. Took the classes but could not remember what was demonstrated AND the Bernina book and also the tutorial was no help at all.
Today I decided to try to google my question and this site showed up first. Hooray – I have printed it. Bernina should have to pay you for your talents. Since they probably won’t – Just pat yourself on the back from me and say GREAT JOB.
July 4th, 2009 at 1:35 pm
Thanks for a most excellent tutorial. The pics were great, it was like having an instructor in my home, and on July 4th too! Thanks!
July 14th, 2009 at 8:52 pm
I am so grateful to you! Bernina’s manuals are written for the more proficient, I think. I could not figure it out as I read and reread all instructions. The buttonholes I made are beautiful and, yes, I did think that I was brilliant after I did them. Then I figured that without your great tutorial they wouldn’t look so brilliant, so thanks again and again.
August 18th, 2009 at 7:29 pm
Thank you so much for this. I have a Bernina 150QE and struggled for years with this feature and the 3A foot. I knew what the red slider on the foot was for, but I never placed my button on top of the foot to measure it. Great tutorial. I’m bookmarking your site. Thanks again!
August 30th, 2009 at 7:09 am
Yesterday I took on making a queen sized duvet cover, and was at the final stage of it, needing to make 9 buttonholes. Of course, I forgot how, and had misplaced the manual. I googled Bernina-buttonholes- and found your excellent tutorial. You have done a beautiful job here, and I love your text as well. Buttonholes are so EASY. Thank you!
August 30th, 2009 at 7:14 am
Robyn, have you used the Bernina to sew on buttons?
October 14th, 2009 at 3:07 am
This tutorial was wonderful, however I still couldn’t get my buttonholes to look very nice
I set the size and hit the return button when the red marks meet, but the foot doesn’t return all the way to the top dial (”0″) so then the second side starts several stitches lower and ends several stitches lower. It does the zigzag across the bottom but the first side has a small gap at the bottom.
I thought perhaps it was the fabric I was using so I “helped” it return to the top by pulling the fabric up, which helped – the top sides of the two halves were then even, but still the foot continued to sew the second size just a bit longer than the first and so there was a still a bit of a gap on the left side of the hole. What am I doing wrong??
October 15th, 2009 at 5:44 am
Jennifer, My 440 did the same thing so when I took it in the tech did something to correct it and now works fine. Something was out of wack!
October 15th, 2009 at 10:27 am
I had the same problem as Jennifer. I took the foot off and cleaned the top plastic bubbles. Then I turned of the machine and started over. It worked correctly!! I had been putting button holes in think knit fabric & I thought it was the fabric, so I “helped” it also by pulling the fabric up. After the cleaning and rebooting the machine, it worked without my help!
I don’t know what I did, but it decided to work correctly.
November 24th, 2009 at 8:29 pm
Thank you for the tutorial. I’m having the same problem as Jennnifer. I have 15 small buttonholes to make and I’m short on time. I’ve cleaned everthing – short of taking to be repaired – what else do you suggest. My project has to be done within the next week. Help!
December 26th, 2009 at 8:59 am
I have a 440 QE , using the 3A foot. First time trying to make a buttonhole and was hoping to automatically make the keyhole one, as I have about ten to make on a duvet cover.
I guess I don’t understand their thinking at Bernina.
I thought I could just punch in “No. 14″ and it would move along and do the automatic buttonhole.
Mine, however, does the first side up and down, including the keyhole, and then just stays at the top and makes a knobby knot. ?????How do I get it to move from the left side auto blinking?? Reading your tutorial, it sounds like I have to “make my own” keyhole one first,but I can’t even get it to do that. and THEN I get to make all the other automatic ones? Is that how it goes? Thanks for the help.
January 15th, 2010 at 9:39 pm
My buttonhole foot doesn’t seem to be working properly. The first bar is fine and, when I press the reverse stitch button, the straight stitch goes back, but then the stitches still just keep going back instead of finishing the buttonhole. Is it something I’m doing or do I need to replace my 3A foot? Can they be repaired?
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January 18th, 2010 at 10:06 pm
Thanks for the post. I am trying to see the different buttonholes advertised on Berninas but the straight one seems to be the main one shown. By the way–a buttonhole should be a tiny bit longer than the button is wide, to allow for easy buttoning and unbuttoning. To make it exactly the length of the button is usually only for decorative buttonholes.
February 3rd, 2010 at 2:56 pm
Wow!!! thanks for this tutorial. I have never seen anything as detailed and helpful as this. You should write a book and sell it for money!!! I know that anyone who has read any of your tutorials would buy it. I sure would.